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Clashing personalities, a community in transition, competing developments… a perfect storm is brewing in picture-perfect Peggys Cove
We’ll begin our tour of Peggys Cove–Nova Scotia’s combination postcard-perfect lighthouse, traditional fishing village and world-renowned tourist attraction—at the spot where such tours often begin: the tip of the recently completed $3.1-million public boardwalk and viewing deck.
The view is spectacular—iconic Peggys Point lighthouse, maybe the most photographed in the world, thrusting skyward out of gigantic heaving granite boulders. Beyond them, the ominous blue-black of the Atlantic Ocean stretching out to forever beneath a hovering slate grey sky.
On this relatively calm late September day, gaggles of tourists, some from cruise-ship bus tours, cavort on the rocks, heedless of the red and orange DANGER signs— “Death Has Occurred Here… Don’t Take Risks… Leave Here Alive”—taking selfies and/or simply staring into the crashing waves, pondering the always capricious, ever-dangerous whims of Mother Nature.
Mother Nature, some residents will tell you, isn’t the only capricious force at work in this cove.
Turn back to your left, and you’ll see the almost as iconic Sou’Wester Restaurant and Gift Shop at 178 Peggys Point Road. What began nearly 60 years ago as a five-table tearoom is now a 180-seat restaurant featuring a sea-caught menu of Maritime delights from fish chowder to boiled lobster. The elongated, two-storey, dormer-roofed, grey-like-the-sky building that houses the restaurant also boasts a two-level gift shop with “one of the Maritimes’ largest selections of giftware.” Many of this year’s nearly three-quarters-of-a-million tourists to the Cove will almost certainly begin or end their visit with a stop at the Sou’Wester.
The Sou’Wester, unusual for such a venerable tourism business, is still run by the family of its founder, Jack Campbell. Remember the Campbell name. It won’t be the last time you hear it.
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The article on Peggy’s Cove was a great read.
Kudos to Stephen Kimber.
Loved it.
I knew Jack Campbell very well. A great entrepreneur and the creator of the Peggy’s Cove experience. We had a Hot Apple Cider drink in our Lounge in Bridgewater. José put in on the menu as Campbell’s Brew as Jack gave him his famous recipe so popular at the Sou’wester.
Think of his vision and what he and now John have created. A workplace furnishing another income for fishermen’s families, and jobs in the surrounding communities where no work opportunities existed. Think of the economic power that made the Village the mecca that it is today, He was creative, generous, and a genius always looking ahead,and improving the business and the way it was done. Every time we were there, it involved a tour when Jack would show us his latest innovaaation
The Campbell’s appear to be crooked and they want to rule the roost. McCain was too powerful and intimidating for them so they allowed her rezoning.
Quaint small coastal village is more than often a disguise for corrupted consanguinity, as the article clearly depicts.
Agree 💯
All of Nova Scotia is like that. It’s just more visible on such a small scale with these hopeless amateurs. Move up the ladder to the provincial level and it remains equally inbred but with high priced lawyers facilitating the corruption, monopolies and nepotism.
Finally someone has the guts to delve into and expose the sores of Peggy’s Cove. Atlantic Canada should be proud of this article. The other media in Nova Scotia, could learn from this investigative report rather than just presenting window dressing. A few years ago a fisherman living in the Cove told me the plan is to force the remaining fishermen out, then be replaced by student reinactors. The authorities said their properties were messy and not attractive for the visitors. Can’t wait to see Peggy’ Two. You have just cut a chunk off the iceburg.
Jack Campbell Snr, was well known to be a “friend of the government of the day!” Denying access to a beach in NS can only be won by DEEP pockets!
The best story I ever heard about Peggy’s Cove: A family was sitting down to the evening meal , when a couple of American tourists, opened their screen door, and walked into the kitchen.