Steve Cox, a retired professor and archaeologist from Vermont, first visited Battle Harbour in 2001. “I was immediately charmed by the place, by both its natural beauty and its historical interest,” he says. Cox returned for his fifth visit in September 2014. Over the years, he’s spent hours tramping the hills of the island, cavorting with humpbacks on a whale researchers’ Zodiac, visiting the locals, and sitting on hilltops enjoying the view.

Cox, however, is concerned. He misses preparing meals on a wood stove in a cottage and eating by lamp light, which is no longer an option. “Also, I find the idea of a spa at Battle Harbour rather jarring. Perhaps the changes are necessary,” he says, adding, “I would not hesitate to recommend Battle Harbour and very much hope that it succeeds, but as someone who has loved the place for quite a few years, I am a bit saddened.”

Bruno and Marie Frohlick (friends of the Coxs’) were on the same trip last fall — for the first time. For Marie Frohlick, a certified health coach and herbalist, some of the highlights (along with making some herbal discoveries) was the tour with Jim Jones, and meeting people working there. She adds, “And to see where Captain Peary held that historical press conference in Croucher’s Loft, was also a highlight. I would return in a heartbeat.”